Put the trials side by side and a pattern appears. The positive results are real: several randomized trials found improvements in wrinkles, elasticity and collagen. But the strongest summary of the field, the 2018 review of 31 trials, still grades skin rejuvenation at the bottom of its evidence scale. The trials are small, many lack a sham control, and the doses and wavelengths change from one study to the next. The 2022 meta-analysis pools yellow and near-infrared devices with red ones, so it cannot tell a mask buyer what a red-only mask does.
There is also a gap between the trials and the products. Most of the clinic trials treated people twice a week for weeks with measured doses. Home masks rarely publish their irradiance, which makes it impossible to match their sessions to any studied dose. A device that hides its output may sit outside every range the trials used.
So the honest answer is: red light therapy for skin is plausible, consistently promising, and not yet proven to the standard a 300-euro purchase deserves. That is more than most brand pages will tell you, and less than their headlines claim.